Bergdorf Goodman windows, Christmas in Manhattan, Holiday 2012, Magnolia Bakery, New York, Sprinkles, Stumptown Coffee, Sugar Sweet Sunshine
Where you choose to hang your hat in Manhattan really does impact your stay, despite easy access subway lines that will you take you all over the five burroughs and back28th Street Subway again. Staying uptown really threw a wrench in most of my morning plans as all of the coffee places I had read about like Bluebird Cafe were in the East Village or Soho. Luckily I discovered Stumptown Coffee Roasters inside the Ace hotel at 29th and Broadway. It was a mere fifteen minute walk from where I was staying and delivered solid cappuccinos with a small selection of delicious baked goods like apricot thyme scones. They only accept cash which made me feel right at home as loads of cafes in Paris either have a card minimum or don’t accept them at all. I was even able to pick up a beautifully designed burr coffee grinder they had for sale made by Red Rooster Trading Company. I’m looking forward to grinding my own beans from my neighborhood farmer’s market back in Paris.
There are always a few tried & true spots that I insist on visiting every time I’m in New York. One of them is the Dean & Deluca on Prince St. in Soho, where I like to stop in for one of their melt in your mouth iced lemon poppyseed scones. Unfortunately this time around the girl behind the counter gave me a quizzical look when I asked for one and offered me a lemon muffin instead which sadly paled in comparison. However it’s still a great stop for a fresh bite on the go, a quick coffee before commencing your Soho window licking or souvenirs for your pantry back home.
As this was my first time in New York during the holiday season I was keen to take in all Bergdorf Goodmanthe window displays of the big department stores lining 5th Ave. It was no surprise that the always alluring Bergdorf Goodman windows were the clear front runners in extravagance, opulence and whimsy. The windows were inspired by the 1920s jazz age and were entitled, ” BG Follies of 2012.” David Hoey, Director of Visuals at Bergdorf Goodman designed a truly decadent demonstration of Art Deco drama. I was dazzled each time I strolled past…
Of course I did the obligatory peek at the Christmas tree at Rockefeller center and it was indeed cinematic to see the ice skaters twirling underneath the skyscrapers of Manhattan.
Everyone kept telling me how I had just missed a week of unusual warm winter weather as my time in New York was frosty, damp and a bit dreary. Of course that’s perfect weather for indulging in all of my favorite sweet treats. It must seem at this point that all I ever consume is pastry and sugar but I promise there were a few savory highlights on my trip. I did however finally get to try an Italian gelateria called GROM that I’ve seen in Paris and that many of my friends have been insisting I try for ages Sugar Sweet Sunshinenow. After tasting their Gianduja affogato with a scoop of nocciola topped with their ultra dense Panna Montata I was a believer.
I also finally gave in to years of baiting by friends to try Magnolia Bakery’s cupcakes. Ok before I begin I must state for the record that I am a west coast lad and will always proclaim Sprinkles as being the pinnacle of cupcake perfection. Having said that, Magnolia’s were absolutely decent. I tried a simple vanilla buttercream and it was good…not great…definitely not Sprinkles. In fact as I mentioned earlier on, my favorite east coast cupcake shop is still SUGAR SWEET SUNSHINE! Their little shop at 126 East Rivington always smells like my childhood and I love all the sass of their cakes and their employees.
I did manage to carve out an afternoon to visit my dear friend Susan for lunch in Williamsburg. She is an acupuncturist with a practice in Manhattan specializing in women’s health. When we get together we like to gab about fashion, food and tea leaves. She always indulges me in my quest for more insight into eastern medicine and she gets that cupcakes here and there are definitely ok. If you live in the New York area and are ever interested in acupuncture I would highly recommend giving her a call, ny chi She suggested a place called Marlow and Sons which I had heard about and was Brooklyn Heightsexcited to finally check out.
I am happy to report that not only was my coffee delicious but our food was superb. Even though it was lunchtime I was in the mood for something breakfasty so I had their poached eggs over a bed of kale served with sauteed forest mushrooms and a biscuit for good measure! It was a memorable meal despite the fact that the darkened and cramped interior of the restaurant left me feeling a little claustrophobic. She took me over to Brooklyn Heights afterwards for a stroll around the handsome brownstones while I regaled her with stories of Parisian living.
The absolute foodie highlight of the whole trip though came at the end with an unexpected dinner on my last night at Thomas Keller’s restaurant PER SE I feel like such a bad blogger because I failed to take any photographs of my meal or the restaurant itself. It was definitely one of those places where snapping a quick pic of my gorgeously Per Se Cookiesplated food seemed inappropriate. It was also such a treat that I thought I’d take a break from recording all the details and just let myself get swept away by the scene. Having lived in the bay area I of course was familiar with the infamous French Laundry but I had never been lucky enough to dine there.
I have been to Bouchon in Yountville as well as the location in Beverly Hills but nothing could prepare me for the meal at Per Se. From start to finish it was absolute heaven, one of those rare dining moments where everyone’s eyes rolled into the back of their heads from amuse bouche to entree to dessert. I realize it is a small fortune to eat here but you would be hard-pressed to find a better place to feel like you were in a world class city dining on supremely sophisticated yet delicious food all the while overlooking glorious Central Park. It was a very glamorous New York evening. I did manage to take one photo that for me sums up the elegance of Per Se, their departing gift of a stack of freshly baked shortbread cookies stuffed with a chocolate/berry ganache to, as the server put it, “Enjoy with your morning coffee.” I’m in love!
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